Piedmont

When I called Marco Shaw, executive chef at Piedmont, to tell him that I was reviewing the restaurant, he had just gotten back from the Durham Farmers' Market. The excitement in his voice was unmistakable, and it was clear that it was not so much over the pending review as it was the local produce he had scored: "I got red and gold beets, for the first time in a long time. Some beautiful asparagus, a ton of spring onions ..."