Pulcinella's

News & Observer food critic Greg Cox says: There's a rustic elegance about this little gem, from its sepia photographs of Italian life in a bygone era, to its rich Chianti-and-pesto color scheme. From the modest but varied menu, you won't go wrong with any of the soulfully simple dishes pairing one of the kitchen's red sauces with spaghetti, ziti or angel hair pasta, cooked consistently al dente regardless of shape. And the white pizza, topped with mozzarella, emerald-green broccoli, garlic and sparkling white slabs of ricotta, is a treasure for the tongue.