Centro

Dos Taquitos in North Raleigh has long been a favorite for those seeking an unusual eating and watering hole. It serves fantastic Mexican and South American fare in an atmosphere that might best be described as an indoor jungle of funkiness.

Dos Taquitos Centro has emerged downtown with less clutter on the menu and in the dining room. Rest assured: this is not your father’s Mexican.

Located in a beautifully restored historic frame on Wilmington, bundle up if you’re headed there this winter: the dining room was cold when we visited. #1 kept his coat on almost the entire meal, and I was tempted to do the same.

Still, a complimentary (free food!) soup helped to ease the pain and we quickly ordered a larger soup appetizer, Pozole, to warm our tummies. This hearty pre-Columbian soup made of hominy, pork, various dried chiles and spices was a big hit and a large serving--- could easily be an entree for some. Accompanied by an assortment of “guarniciones” including fresh avocado.

I ordered Los Tamales: two tamalitos, one pork-red and one poblano-green, steamed in plantain leaves. While eating the accompanying greens on the side, I hardly noticed a thin slice of red pepper before it entered my mouth and I paid dearly for it: I was in tears for about five minutes.

We also shared an order of Chorizo con Queso: a small bowl of warm queso with tiny pieces of chorizo (sausage) and a large basket of crispy doritos (gone within minutes!).

For entrees, #2 had Salmón Shiporindo: Pan-seared salmon topped with a chipotle-tamarindo caramel. This was a unique dish, but we both felt the salmon smelled and tasted too “fishy”.

I had Mole Manchamanteles. Not to be confused with the more popular dark moles, this sauce is a reddish mix of fruits and nuts. I chose chicken rather than pork, and the portion was extremely generous. In fact, I could not clean my plate (and that’s unusual, for me).

But, we all agreed, the best was had by #1: Dos Taquitos’ signature steak tacos. Two grilled flour tortillas, filled with Chihuahua cheese, steak, pico de gallo and avocado. Served with just a spoonful of cilantro rice and refried black beans, this (and the Pozole) would be the dish I would order if we ever returned.

And, therein lies the problem: we were not so blown away that we would return. With two of our favorites just down the street--- Riviera and The Raleigh Times Bar--- Dos Taquitos Centro would not be our first choice if traveling “all the way downtown” for a meal.

Total bill: $105 before tip.

106 S. Wilmington Street
Phone: 835.3593