Venue Review: Moonlight Pizza Company
After struggling for a couple of years in a cramped location with no parking to speak of on Glenwood Avenue, Moonlight Pizza pulled up stakes and moved into roomier digs at Morgan and Boylan streets last year. Good move. The new dining room, which sports a clean New Age look with a lunar motif, is easily the most polished of the three gourmet pizza establishments, though by no means is it sumptuous or stuffy. And there's a full bar, a patio and plenty of parking.
The pizzas, which were easily worth all the parking hassles of the old location, haven't suffered a whit in the move. The bready crust, for starters, is still accented with the texture of semolina and cornmeal, and it still sports that distinctive glazed, braided-look crust.
To top the crust, more than 60 options -- the most extensive of the lot -- are listed. These include 10 cheeses and -- an especially generous touch -- five complimentary toppings (fresh oregano, rosemary, sage, lemon zest and sesame seeds).
Fans of the original Moonlight Pizza will recognize the names of their old favorite topping combinations, from Pie in the Sky (grilled shrimp, artichoke hearts, black olives, lemon zest, Parmesan and fresh mozzarella on a base of sun-dried tomato pesto and ricotta) to my personal favorite, Venus & Mars (smoked sausage, pistachios, artichoke hearts, roasted corn and mozzarella on a house-made tomato sauce base, the whole thing topped with chevre and fresh rosemary).
Moonlight's offering also encompasses several generous salads and appetizers, including artichoke and Parmesan dip and tender fried calamari with a very garlicky lemon aioli. If you think you might still conceivably be hungry after all that, there's also a small assortment of desserts supplied by local pastry baker Edible Art. Skip the key lime cheesecake and get the chocolate raspberry cake.