Events Venues Restaurants Movies
Home | Register | Log In

Venue Review: The Mint

Information
Opulence marks the Mint
The Mint
By By Greg Cox, The News & Observer
Triangle.com

A gleaming, six-ton steel bank vault door built into the entryway is the first clue. Then follow strings of faceted crystals, suggestive of diamond necklaces, suspended from the dining room's soaring two-story ceiling; yards of polished stone and custom fabrics, including the sumptuous silken upholstery of deep banquettes; dramatic modern sculptures backlit in the copper and green of money. Upstairs, in the sleek lounge that overlooks the dining room, the bartender mixes cocktails with esoteric ingredients such as absinthe and elderflower liqueur, then sets them on a bar whose glass top, like a jeweler's case, displays more of those cut glass "diamonds" on black velvet. Behind the bar, a backlit bottle of Remy Martin Louis XIII cognac ($80 per one-ounce shot) radiates a bullion glow.

The Mint's name is more than just a nod to the bank that once occupied the space, or a reference to the considerable investment by its owners, Raleigh Restaurant Group (whose own investment was supplemented by $1 million in seed money from the city of Raleigh as part of the downtown revitalization effort). Together, the restaurant's name and decor represent the promise of a dining experience made memorable by its opulence.

Executive chef Jeremy Clayman does his part in living up to that promise with a seasonally changing menu that might best be described as "contemporary Southern dips its toe in the foam of molecular gastronomy." Augmenting classic culinary techniques with the foams, gels, sous vide cooking, a type of cooking with pressure, and other science-lab hallmarks of molecular gastronomy, Clayman turns out presentations that are among the most culinarily ambitious -- and certainly most distinctive -- around.

When the chef's creations work, as they do more often than not, the results can be memorable indeed. A stunning, first-course offering of butter-poached lobster with peanuts, popcorn and bourbon-caramel (think deconstructed Fiddle Faddle) proved so popular on the introductory winter menu that it has been held over for an encore performance for the spring. In another starter, Clayman presents seared jumbo scallops, parsnips, ramps and a translucent slice of dehydrated and candied orange in a surprisingly harmonious composition of variations on the theme of naturally sweet flavors: briny, earthy, herbal and citrus. In a similarly successful entree presentation, leek purée and vanilla citrus hollandaise showcase the lean flesh of poached ono. And, while I couldn't detect anything particularly experimental about the preparation of steel cut oats, the decision to pair them with roasted rack of lamb is inspired.

Clayman's creations don't always hit the mark. Seared organic chicken comes close, but the lukewarm temperature and semiliquid white of the accompanying sous vide-cooked "hot spring egg" isn't likely to win many fans. A first-course offering starring medallions of veal flank is marred by a chewy star ingredient. So, inexplicably, are crab cakes with braised fennel and a lavender-vanilla sauce.

For those who prefer simpler presentations, a supplemental menu offers a steakhouse-style selection of grilled and roasted steaks, seafood and poultry, with sides ordered a la carte. Judging by the 22-ounce bison rib-eye I sampled recently, and by the collards and truffle Parmesan potato purée I ordered alongside, I'd say the a la carte option offers every bit as lavish an experience as the entree menu.

Either way, dessert is a must -- a warm, molten-centered chocolate cake, say, or a sinfully grown-up deconstruction of the childhood classic, PB&J. And as long as you're here for the opulent experience, you might as well splurge on an after-dinner port or dessert wine from one of the Triangle's most impressive wine lists.

Credit for assembling the 500-plus wines in the list goes to general manager Doug Snyder, who comes to The Mint from Bin 54 in Chapel Hill. Snyder is also in charge of the wait staff who, with one or two exceptions, are as polished and pampering as the surroundings.

With most entrees hovering around the $30 mark, The Mint isn't cheap. But you knew it wouldn't be, the minute you walked in the door and saw that bank vault. Think of it as an investment in your happiness.

Reviews & Comments
CRITICS REVIEWS
Edit this review Delete this review
 May 9, 2008 - Triangle.com - By Greg Cox, The News & Observer

A gleaming, six-ton steel bank vault door built into the entryway is the first clue. Then follow strings of faceted crystals, suggestive of diamond necklaces, suspended from the dining room's soaring two-story ceiling; yards of polished stone and custom fabrics, including the sumptuous silken upholstery of deep banquettes; dramatic modern sculptures backlit in the copper and green of money. Upstairs, in the sleek lounge that overlooks the dining room, the bartender mixes cocktails with esoteric ingredients such as absinthe and elderflower liqueur, then sets them on a bar whose glass top, like a jeweler's case, displays more of those cut glass "diamonds" on black velvet. Behind the bar, a backlit bottle of Remy Martin Louis XIII cognac ($80 per one-ounce shot) radiates a bullion glow.
(Full review)

USER REVIEWS
Aug 30, 2008 - TheFoodClique

A Las Vegas/ LA Dining experience here in Raleigh! Recently at a party I attended that was full of Chefs, one Chef mentioned that he worked at The Mint. After talking with him about Advanced Molecular Gastronomy (better know as food science) and how they practiced it at The Mint, as a food nerd I had to go.
The decor was very elegant, luxurious, and modern. Our server Matt was extremely knowledgeable, and vividly described his favorite entrees and how they were prepared using molecular techniques such as dehydrating and pickling watermelon.
My favorite appetizer, The Butter Poached Lobster with pureed popcorn, miso caramel, and peanut butter was the perfect balance of sweet and savory.
We also sampled the Duck Foie Gras with huckleberries, the Watermelon Gazpacho which is served chilled out of a tea kettle, and both the Baby Lettuce and Crab Salad. Even if you never accept freshly ground pepper on your salad, you absolutely have to at The Mint just to experience how truly awesome their pepper grinder is. I don't want to ruin the surprise just trust me and accept the pepper, or you'll instantly regret it when you see someone else get it.
For our entree we shared the Filet Mignon, and Matt offered to have it split for us on separate plates. Wow. It was so buttery and just melted into my mouth. The accompanying beet sauce and hollandaise were incredible with the foraged mushrooms. All of the plates were eclectic, and beautiful works of art.
My Husband and I both agreed that we were way too full for dessert but ordered the Warm Valrhona Chocolate Cake anyway, which is made from scratch and baked while you wait. Now, normally in most situations you would not want to wait fifteen minutes for dessert at a restaurant. But it was a wonderful idea, since we sipped our espressos and let the overwhelming "fullness" subside. With the rich raspberry sauce, subtle citrus and vanilla notes it was both simple, light, and seductively decadent.
Chef Jeremy Clayman knows what he is doing, and we enjoyed our dinner so much I felt like I was on vacation and forgot that I was in Raleigh. While I have traveled to many big cities and eaten at some big name Chef's Restaurants, this was definitely my favorite experience here in Raleigh. Matt was a great server, and all of the staff that we met really went out of their way for us. It was a magical evening.

Jul 28, 2008 - gibb8s
Fun Night

We went to The Mint, for our first time, over the weekend of July 25th 2008. Valet Parking was a very nice start to the evening. Was completely "wowed" entering the building and climbing the stairs to grab a cocktail while waiting for other friends to arrive. The atmosphere is fantastic and something that Raleigh had lacked. The lounge upstairs is definitely a nice place to relax with friends and the live music was an extra treat! Our friends arrived and we headed downstairs to eat. Lucky us - we were seated in one of the huge booths and promptly welcomed by our server. The service was excellent from start to finish and we were treated very well from the "team" that worked with our server. I was ready for the food to knock me off my feet - but that didn't happen. I had the lobster bisque with the knuckle sandwich. It seemed to be under seasoned and was quite bland. The server did mention that it wouldn't be lobster bisque as usual - still seemed under seasoned - but I finished every drop of it! For dinner I chose the a la carte menu - 8oz fillet and my two sides were the mushroom risotto and garlic fingerling potatoes. The sauce I chose was the truffle butter. The steak was cooked perfectly to order and tasted great on its own - and even better with the truffle butter (of course). The risotto was not very good at all. The texture was there but the creamy and earthy tones I was looking for in taste were all but lost in the over-powering red wine flavor. The potatoes were good and simple. I shared some sides with friends. The collard greens reminded me of Levi-Garrett chewing tobacco. It's been a decade since I had Levi-Garrett but the taste and texture were so similar.....compare it for your self - but just don't swallow the Levi!! The asparagus was par for the course. The big winner was the mac and cheese side! Wow it was good! We didn't get a dessert - we were all full and saving room for cocktails…but they looked and sounded delicious! Dinner took a long time - which was great! Keep this in mind when you go. Give yourself plenty of time to eat and soak up the conversation and atmosphere! I'm giving The Mint 3 stars. On the upside for the service and decor. The food was expensive - which I didn't mind, but thought would be better. I will go back – but not for a while, for dinner. I could be talked into going there for a cocktail any time though!! Oh – almost forgot. One of my friends tried the kangaroo appetizer – he said that he enjoyed it.

Mar 19, 2008 - udorawala

Zvents - Discover things to do
restaurantzzzz Related Venues